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hanschristian.org • View topic - Solar panels

Solar panels

Moderators: warmrain, mimoza

Solar panels

Postby rick_bradshaw » Mon Mar 08, 2010 1:14 am

Mathias,

I think this is probably the more the place to post this thread.

Solar panels. We have Kyocera 85 Watt panels. There are 2 with one on port and the other starboard. We do not have an arch. The only arch I've seen that I really like is the one that "Tender Spirit" (now in NZ I think) has. It looks like it nearly belongs on the boat. Well designed.

I'd like to get larger panels but don't know where I'd mount them so that they would be out of the way. We have to be careful where we have them so that the mainsheet doesn't get involved. Get the sizes, make templates, and check out where you could put them.

Today, I think the top of the line are 130W panels by Kyocera. I know of a ketch that uses that and can make water with it and not have problems. Leaves the boat all day and it is 'chugging" when he gets back but he has water. Next day he recharges the batteries back to normal. The more watts you can reasonably have the better. It will take less time to charge the batteries and gives you more options.

I think one of, or the best places to get these gems is from a place in Arizona. I think something like "southern arizona wind and power" or something like that. They have the best prices and break the products ddown between marine and land applications. I got ours there. (They also sell the Air-X marine wind gen.)

We currently have them mounted outside the cockpit on a "U" shaped mounting that revolves around the ss rail we added to the cockpit in lieu of the lifeline. there is a support post below that that is connected to the "U" at one end and the stanchion at the other. The post is held in place in the brackets by quick release pins. The original design called for them to be able to rotate into the cockpit. However, the welder who did the job had to make a change at the installation and they only go to vertical. They also rotate on that "U" so that the become flat to either side. that has come in quite handy coming in to a slip for the first time.

Don't forget: The wind doesn't always blow and the sun doesn't always shine but genrally if one isn't working the other might well be. In warmer water 80 or 90 degrees of the tropics, you need a lot of battery and a lot of charging capability especially if you want to have and maintain any refrigeration.
Rick

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solar

Postby dolph » Mon Mar 08, 2010 1:38 am

Hey, thanks. I googled and found "northern arizona wind and sun" or "windsun.com"

I'll be spending some time there. Researching, comparing, drooling.

-Mathias
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Postby rick_bradshaw » Mon Mar 08, 2010 4:23 am

When you look at the site, remember you are looking at 12v systems (or maybe 24v?). It's easy to get carried away.

My advise is to plan and keep an eye out for when you need to have it. Right now i think there is a sale on. The longer you wait the better the technology and the less expensive it is. OTOH, the sale might be off then. When we got ours, the 130 was just coming out and there was no sale on.

Would be good if you could work out a scheme to any direction movement so that you can follow the sun a bit better. We have side to side movement but not fore and aft movement. You need both to maximize the coverage. That said, most people will put them out flat and just leave them there. If you can monitor the panels, you will gain power by being able to move them. Lots to consider.

Good luck with the plan. And, be sure not to drool over the computer. :lol:
Rick

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where to mount

Postby dolph » Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:23 am

It seems like a few previous posts indicate that mounting over the dodger might be the best solution.

Is that true? What are other people's experiences?

How vulnerable are the panels to breakage?

Thanks,
-Mathias
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Postby rick_bradshaw » Mon Mar 08, 2010 3:19 pm

Our dodger is a spray hood (haven't changed that yet from the previous owner) and not large enough to do that. Also consider that you have to have enough space to allow the lines on the boom to move about back and forth over the dodger. On the 33T with the traditional main sheet configuration, there is not a lot of safe places to mount. An arch would help but then there is the weight management thing in the ends of the boat to work with.
Rick

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Postby remetau » Tue Mar 09, 2010 2:09 pm

We went the Solar Stik and a Kiss wind gen for our 33T. We really like the Solar Stik, but it is very expensive and only comes with 100w of panels. I’m thinking about putting another panel on the back of our davits to get us to a total of 200w.
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Postby rick_bradshaw » Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:57 pm

I saw another type of solar panel mount today. In fact, i saw it on several boats near each other.

Think of a ss pipe bent to an inverted "L" shape. One leg, the vertical one, of it is clamped to a stanchion (cockpit?). The horizontal is at the top with the end pointed outboard. The solar panel is mounted to that. Mounts allow for the inverted "L" to be moved 360 degrees and the horizontal allows for it to be moved 360 degrees there too. With the right vertical length/height and combining them you get good coverage and if monitored, more power.

Pros I can think of:
- relatively inexpensive
- all parts off the shelf
- except for the bend, can do without help/special fabrication

Cons I can think of:
- possible in the way of the main sheet
- strength might be questionable especially for the larger, heavier panels
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Postby rick_bradshaw » Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:00 am

Hmmm. Now, why didn't that jpg file post?
Rick

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Postby mimoza » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:33 am

It did post. You just have to click on it and download it. Strange....

Good idea. I can see ways in which it can be improved, such as anchoring the base with, e.g., an antenna mount. The swivel capability would need to be maintained. Using railing instead of stanchions for the upper support would mean less strain on the stanchion bases.

You could visit your local dodger maker (don't let him come to you - you'll pay - find a builder who is already in the marina, or go to the shop.) Get a spare piece of pipe - preferably 1" instead of 3/4" and have it bent on the spot.

I would point out that it is a good idea to keep the post as near to vertical as possible. Otherwise the weight of the panel will tend to make the post want to twist. Your clamps will have enough work to do with ambient wind pressure without adding a gravity induced torque.

Overall, it seems like a pretty good idea - at least when in port.

Simple. Flexible. I like it.
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Postby mike » Sun Mar 14, 2010 10:48 am

When we use to have solar panels we had them on a gantry above the dodger, not ideal as they were patially sheilded by the boom unless you rested the boom in one of the outboard slots on the gallows. It did keep them out of the way.

sorry I don't have a better pic

mike
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Postby Great_Aardvark » Sun Mar 14, 2010 1:54 pm

Mike,
I think your missing something in your picture.... Like water. These boat move easier with water around them instead of dirt.

How much of a drop is the tide where this is?? This does beat paying to have the boat hauled to clean the bottom and repaint.

Tony
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Postby mike » Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:27 am

Tony,

Our biggest tides of the year are about 6.5mts (21'4") between high & low water so on the big tides each month we can moor alongisde let the tide go out & & get a presure wash; we have from around 9.00am to 2.30pm to work on the hull so it gives us time to get 2 coats of boot topping on the waterline. The only draw is we cant get to the very bottom of the keel as it burries in the sand.

You've got to make sure you use the main hlyard to keep the boat heeling against the pier until she settles otherwise it could be dissasterous!

Mike
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Postby Great_Aardvark » Mon Mar 15, 2010 2:14 pm

Mike,
That is a good size drop. This is a real benefit though and I can see how easy it would be to keep the bottom clean. Every 3 or 4 months do this and never need to do a haul out. I have been sailing on a fairly large lake for many years which is only 25 mile from home. With all of my previous boat I have a diver clean the bottom every six months. This allows me to not redo the bottom for years. When I move Shearwater to the coast I hope I can do the same.

Tony
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Postby mike » Mon Mar 15, 2010 7:14 pm

Tony,

We also use Coppercoat semi permanent antifouling which gives a 10 year minimum lifespan, so far its been ok but because of how last season went we didn't get chance of a pressure wash, when we were in Norway I noticed we had barnackles on the rudder, I would guess these are attached to the slime on the hull which is acting as a barrier preventing the copper working. will know in the next couple of months after we dry out & pressure wash.

Mike
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Postby mimoza » Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:39 pm

We get about a 17' maximum tide swing here in Puget Sound, and there are a (very) few tidal grids which are set up for the purpose. However pressure washing is verboten unless one's boat is hanging over an approved EPA (that's Environmental Protection Agency, Mike) collection drain. We can't have any of those nasty antifouling paints washing down into the sea, now can we?

Oh well.

When sanding the bottom:
We need to completely shroud the hull - and have a corresponding tarp on the ground - before doing any sanding on the bottom. The sanding machine must have a vacuum powered HEPA dust trap as well. The sander operator would be wise to have full body protection as well as a HEPA face mask, since the work will all take place inside the shroud.

I'll let you know how it goes...
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