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hanschristian.org • View topic - Deck Hatches

Deck Hatches

Moderators: warmrain, mimoza

Deck Hatches

Postby Moon Shadow » Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:23 am

I am having some leaks in my deck hatches. They appear to be original, 1981. The glass is crackling around the edges. I've caulked the corner seams and the under side of the glass to try to buy time but I'm still leaking.
Has anyone reglased their deck hatches successfully?
Please share your experience.
Glen[/b]
Moon Shadow
 

Postby capt_ray » Sun Jul 30, 2006 4:48 pm

I (and others) have replaced the "glass" on my 33 hatches and posted instructions on the old board (as have others). If you can't find the old posts I'll re-cap here.
Let me know.

Ray
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Deck Hatches

Postby Moon Shadow » Sun Jul 30, 2006 6:45 pm

I'm afraid I'm not that familiar with the web site. How do I go about finding the ealier info? Is it possible to cut and past your earlier comments into this site area regarding this subject.
I really appreciate the site and the effort people put into ot. I solved my boarding ladder dilema based on the input I received on the site.
Thanks, Glen
Moon Shadow
 

Postby capt_ray » Sun Jul 30, 2006 7:46 pm

Having just re-built all the hatches on my HC-33 I can offer this advice:

1) When removing the bungs, use a drill bit that doesn’t have a point. If you hit the screws (Phillips head) you will destroy the X-head. The 3/8 hole saw from Japan Woodworking works well. So does the Sear’s damaged screw removal tool if you do mess up the head.
2) Devise a method (wire tags) to mark each and every piece of hardware and wood. The castings are just different enough to drive you crazy on re-assembly.
3) We encountered caulk that varied from gooey to rock hard. Heat did not seem to have much effect. Work a thin putty knife under the upper trim boards. Then try a carving knife…this actually worked best once you could get it under and “walk” it down the length of the trim board. Obviously the first trim piece is the most difficult. We managed to get them all off without any serious cracks.
4) Strip all pieces to bare wood. We put 2 coats of CPES on all the interior wood surfaces, both upper and lower, to seal all the joints (and there are many).
5) We replaced the “glass” with smoked acrylic…its easier to work with and more readily available than polycarbonate. Dimensions are 15.5x23x3/8..need 2 and 21x22x3/8 for the forward hatch. Having the new “glass” on hand allowed us to use it as a cover while the hatches were off the boat.
6) We used the recommended sealant for acrylic (Home Depot…a GE Silicone) to seal the glass and trim boards.
7) We chose not to replace the bungs and used 1” # 10 screws (with finishing washers, where applicable).
8) Six coats of Bristol and a little black caulk and you’re done.
9) While you have all the hardware off, a 5 minute soak in a bucket of Ortho- Phospho (also Home Depot) will strip them of grunge.


We have about 50x2 manhours invested over a 3 week period; working outdoors on a dockbox.

So far (we re-installed them 12/29/05) they are water tight.

Ray
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Postby warmrain » Mon Jul 31, 2006 1:05 pm

Ray, we did ours almost exactly as you did. Only we used bungs. When the hatches are kept varnished though the bungs don'tneed to be glued in,just varnished over.

Agreed about digging out the bungs and about using a putty knife o(or long kitchen spatula) torun under the trim boards on top. Also the smiked acrylic.

Questions though:

What is CPES?

Best, Steve
Yacht "Warmrain" 1986 HC33T #123
Built by Hansa Yacht und Schiffbau G.M.B.H. Taichung Taiwan by Herb Guttler (last Hansa hull was #131, built 1987)

Posts are my opinion based on my experience; your results may vary from mine.
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Postby capt_ray » Tue Aug 01, 2006 12:14 pm

Steve,

CPES is Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer....A low viscosity epoxy. It is the same stuff that sells under the trade name "Git-Rot". It has no UV resistance so, if outside, you need to topcoat with varnish or paint.

Ray
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Postby warmrain » Tue Aug 01, 2006 12:58 pm

Yacht "Warmrain" 1986 HC33T #123
Built by Hansa Yacht und Schiffbau G.M.B.H. Taichung Taiwan by Herb Guttler (last Hansa hull was #131, built 1987)

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Postby capt_ray » Tue Aug 01, 2006 8:26 pm

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Postby warmrain » Tue Aug 01, 2006 10:23 pm

Yacht "Warmrain" 1986 HC33T #123
Built by Hansa Yacht und Schiffbau G.M.B.H. Taichung Taiwan by Herb Guttler (last Hansa hull was #131, built 1987)

Posts are my opinion based on my experience; your results may vary from mine.
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Deck Hatches

Postby Moon Shadow » Wed Aug 02, 2006 6:02 am

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Deck Hatches

Postby Moon Shadow » Wed Aug 02, 2006 6:03 am

Moon Shadow
 

Upgraded

Postby SV_Pegasus » Sat Aug 05, 2006 3:18 am

I removed the trim boards on the top, removed the "glass and replaced it with Lexan cut flush with the edges of the hatch box. Sealed it with automotive windshield tape.
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lexan vs. acrylic

Postby kelpie » Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:56 am

This coming November, we will have owned our Hansa 33 for 30 years. We had the hatches rebuilt back in 1997--not because of leaks, but because of crazing in the 'glass.' We now have a small leak in the forward hatch so I'm about to rebuild it for the second time in 30 years. I plan on doing it myself this time.

My question primarily relates to the type of 'glass' to use. I'm not sure what we had the first time, but for the most recent rebuild in 1997 we used lexan (polycarbonate). I see that several of you seemed to prefer smoked acrylic.

Several questions:

1. Anyone know how acrylic vs. lexan holds up to degradation from the sun (which seems to be what limits the lifetime of the hatch)? Which one would hold up longer before crazing?

2. Those of you who used smoked acrylic: did the smoked tint last? Our original hatches were tinted, but after several years they "turned clear."


Incidentally, in regard to removing bungs, I've done really well with this ever since discovering that a small dremmel with a horizontal cutting bit works great! The bit looks like a drill bit, but is flat on what would normally be the pointed end and has spline-like patterns on the sides of the bit which allow it to cut horizontally. You just tilt it slightly to get started, then work down to the top of the screw and outward in concentrically widening circles until you've reached the radius of the bung. All that remains is to sometimes remove a bit of epoxy or sealer from the slots on the screw head (an engraving bit on the dremmel works wonders here). I've even been able to remove bungs and screws which had mostly stripped slots this way (the engraving tip allows you to clean up and even partly reconstruct damaged slots).

Thanks for any tips anyone can provide.
"Kelpie"
HC 33 #5 (1980)
LaConner, WA
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Hatch Glass

Postby SV_Pegasus » Sun Feb 21, 2010 1:30 am

Hi Kelpie,
I'm down in Olympia. I went with Lexan, only because it's bulletproof and you can stand on it, drop tool on it, etc. I would STRONGLY recommend not countersinknig the screws holding the "glass" down, as Lexan will craze. Beyond that, I'm really happy with it.
Sam
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HC33 #29

"I can teach you how to sail; I cannot teach you why."
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Hatch Material

Postby kelpie » Sun Feb 21, 2010 1:35 am

Hi Sam,

Thanks for the reply. The strength of lexan is a really nice aspect of it for sure. But if some other material held up to the sun considerably better (before crazing), I'd be open to considering an alternative.

Thanks again - Tony
"Kelpie"
HC 33 #5 (1980)
LaConner, WA
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