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hanschristian.org • View topic - Headliner Material

Headliner Material

Moderators: warmrain, mimoza

Headliner Material

Postby miked951 » Mon Nov 30, 2015 12:25 am

Hi everyone,

I'm not a Hans Christian owner (unfortunately) but I do have a Baba 30. I am currently in the process of replacing my headliner after finding and fixing some leaks. But one question I have is, what material are the headliners on the Hans Christians? They look like Beadboard to me. I love the look and I want to replicate it on my Baba 30.

Thank you,

Mike
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Re: Headliner Material

Postby Bill » Tue Dec 01, 2015 11:09 pm

Hi Mike,

Every time I have drilled into my headliner it appear to be Mahogany Ply.
Bill and Lisa
Beyond Reason
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Re: Headliner Material

Postby miked159 » Wed Dec 02, 2015 12:39 pm

That's what I thought. Just wanted to be sure it wasn't standard Beadboard. I found some plywood at Homedepot that's cut to look like Beadboard, it's called Ply-Bead. I'm sure that would work fine.

Thanks Bill.
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Re: Headliner Material

Postby maggie_macrae » Sat Aug 20, 2016 4:22 am

Hi Mike & All,

If this isn't too late... I tore out my headliner from the cockpit to the head bulkhead and center part of the V berth recently. There where 3/4" thick plywood cleats spread around in strategic locations for the headliner to be screwed to. The cleats were screwed up into the coach roof. Not special plywood. Then there was a sub-headliner of 3/16" plywood, and a decorative (Vee grooved 2" on center) headliner, also 3/16". All nothing special plywood. I'm pretty sure the Vee grooving was done with a large router table on whole sheets, then cut to template shapes. The sub-headliner was screwed and spot glued to the cleats and gave the decorative headliner something to adhere to and be fair. The decorative headliner was nailed with brass brads and spot glued to the sub-headliner. Then the nice teak battens were there to cover the seams and screw heads. Paint fills in the bottoms of the Vee so the shape isn't so discernible until you see a cross section. A 5/16" forstner bit works well in removing bungs in teak, then pick out what little is left if it doesn't fall out. I did not have to remove the teak trim on the cabin sides, just the coach roof. Just be careful in that paint can glue the headliner to the teak. I would tap/pound upwards on the headliner to break that bond.

I could tell wet core had corroded a few of the screws holding the cleats up. Gladly that core is all replaced now. I wanted access to the underside of the coach roof, to find leaks for example, as well as replace/add backing plates for deck hardware. So the 3/4" cleats stay in place, and a few more are added. Then both headliners are to be replaced with 3/16" 3 ply marine grade plywood, but in smaller panels and only screwed into place. That means more teak battens to cover up seams. But that way I can take down just what I need to take down. And I can put it right back up. I'm in the middle of this now. I bought a router V bit having the same angle as best I can measure. I want to say 72 degrees included (not common).

By the way, around the dorade vent openings in the headliner, I have/had nice round teak trim pieces that were about 3" tall about 4" ID and had mosquito screen glued to the top edge. They were painted in place and maybe a little glue. The plywood cleat surrounding the vent hole over the galley sink was falling apart from past moisture over time had gotten past the dorade box. It was replaced. There's no waterproofness with that standing pipe design. So water can get to the headliner and cleats. There really aren't good baffles inside my dorade boxes. From outside, we added some fiberglass from the top of the cowl hole to the bottom of the box, as wide as the standing pipe. Otherwise stiff winds carrying rain could easily defeat it. More than 2" of water inside the box would defeat it too. From below, it so happens that a 5" OD fiberglass tube fits up inside the standing pipe and can be epoxied in place. This extends the waterproof column down to the point where I believe I can fit a 5" bronze deck plate up (Perko/CGEdwards) to mate with it. I think I have a plan to make it water proof with the deck plate cap (and O-ring) screwed in. Worst case there's a pint of water waiting for me when I start unscrewing the cap. Also I intend to buy and cut the center out of spare deck plate caps, leaving a flange of maybe 1/4" around the edges, then glue a piece of nice mosquito screening to the top side of that flange. So most of the time the mosquito screen cap lives in the vent. But if the conditions turn bad I can replace them with the solid caps with O-rings. Or more likely, when the weather turns cold (I'm on Lake Superior) I can screw the solid caps in and keep the heat from the propane heater inside the boat rather than outside. 5" also increases the square inches of ventilation a bit from the teak trim. I figure I can even mount a 12v muffin fan on the deck plate going into the shower/head to aid ventilation there. We'll see. I can let you know how it goes if anyone is interested.

It appears that same nothing-special plywood was screwed and adhered to the cabin sides with polysulfide. Fantastic stuff, I wish I knew exactly what is was. All of my portlights are out and the core was hogged out an inch deep. Backfilled with G-flex epoxy. That's another story.

For your reference my boat is an '88 HC 38T Telstar.

Cheers, Alan
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Re: Headliner Material

Postby edelweiss » Sat Sep 17, 2016 1:16 am

That was interesting thanks for the info. Share as much as you can it is always helpful

Mark
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Re: Headliner Material

Postby svmystique » Thu Sep 22, 2016 10:09 pm

After a deck refit, the liner above the v-berth had not fared too well. So I pulled out all the cheap mahogany plywood & plastic shelf paper covering it. That is what was there from the factory, although the rest of the boat as the slightly heavier looking bead-board. I found a white plastic bead board at Lowes and made certain I had enough to do the whole thing at once. It was [provided in 6 inch wide strips, which I cut and put into place one at a time, starting in the center and working my way out. After each one would dry, I would add another. It took a while, but it looks great and will never need to be messed with ever again.
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