How do you remove the side and top wood covers inside?

[andyv94]

Hi,

Has anybody tried to remove the side wood panels as well as the top panels on the side??

[andyv94]

Really? Nobody has removed them?

[imiloa]

I think most people cut an access hole, then make a cover plate.

Cheers!
Devon

[andyv94]

Thanks, that’s what I was trying to avoid : (

[clonjers]

I think the sides a glued. The overhead most likely has screws, just need to find them.

[chrisray12]

What is the purpose of removing?

The cabin top wainscoting is screwed in. You will need to remove the side trim that is screwed and bunged along the cabin top and stringers. The best trick is to run a steam machine in the boat for a hour or so. The steam will collect on the cabin top and show the screw bungs in the wainscoting that has been painted. Then you just remove the bung and unscrew. Should come off without too much pain.

The cabin side wainscoting is a whole different beast. It is glued and glass tabbed. I don't think you will find any bunged or screws to remove and you often will need to remove trim, shelves and lockers to remove in one piece. A big, big project.

Just trying to understand the reason for removal. If rotted, grab a hammer, dremel and pry bar and get to work. If you are trying to run wire or insulate the hull, far better methods than removing the cabin sides. Trying to cut in a new through hull or port light, just cut out what you need with a large shallow drill bit, dremel or router.

Hope that helps.

[andyv94]

I’m putting in new chain plates and wanted to remove the side panel so as to not make any holes
Thanks for the help

[jonneely]

Having cut holes in them for our chainplates, they are well bonded to the hull via vertical stringers about every 18'' from what I can tell.



Jon

[andyv94]

Thanks Jon. I was trying to avoid putting holes like you did because I’m so anal about trying to keep the boat as original as possible..........but I think your way is probably the best way to go!

Oh well. While I have you here Jon, I’m making the chainplates here in Texas with holes already cut in, do you remember the dimensions between the 4 holes? I haven’t been to the boat since Maria so I don’t have the measurements for the holes.
Thank you

[jonneely]

ahh, not off the top of my head. I made them equal distant so the top bolt exactly bisected the bulwark midway then I put the remain 3 into the fiberglass area. I think it was somewhere around 2-3'' spacing. After talking extensively with Brian Toss, the most important bolt is that top one, it gat the most dynamic loads. Im sure you read it but here is the link to how we did ours https://svprism.com/2016/11/04/external ... on-a-hc33/

Are you going stainless or bronze? I would really recommend doing the final fab near the boat, IT took me about 1000 measurements to be sure I was getting the bends and bolts perfect.

Cheers,

Jon

[andyv94]

I am going stainless more likely! Yeah I’ll probably do the same thing you did, make the overall chainplates here and then do the holes once I know exactly where I want them! Did you order yours from Port Townsend foundry?

[jonneely]

we got the metal from onlinemetals.com

[andyv94]

Ok I’ll check them out

Thank tou