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hanschristian.org • View topic - Solid Aft Rail Pics

Solid Aft Rail Pics

This is the very first HCOA message board. The messages were converted but may contain some booboos. But there are over 9000 messages of info to look through.

Moderators: warmrain, mimoza

Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby John Rutherford » Wed Dec 03, 2003 4:59 pm

Someone asked about my solid rail surrounding the cockpit. They wanted to see how it was constructed. Simply explained, the rail is butted up to the top corner of each side of the original aft pulpit. From there the tubing is slightly curved out and is welded to the top of each aft gate shatchion. Each rail is a single piece with 2 welds. The tubing is 1.25 inches in diameter. I can sit on it. But it probably will not take a direct fall on center form a 200+ lbs person such as myself without bending. A single grip winch handle has plenty of room to be used without any interference. <A HREF="http://dessein.com/Soul_Mates/Stantions_2_sm.jpg" TARGET="_blank">http://dessein.com/Soul_Mates/Stantions_2_sm.jpg</A>
<A HREF="http://dessein.com/Soul_Mates/Stantions_sm.jpg" TARGET="_blank">http://dessein.com/Soul_Mates/Stantions_sm.jpg</A> Image
hcoa@dessein.com
John Rutherford
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Mark Raine » Thu Dec 04, 2003 7:37 pm

Thanks John! I was at least one of the most interested as I plan to do some thing like this this winter.
Mark svedelweiss@yahoo.com
Mark Raine
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Damon and David » Fri Dec 05, 2003 3:24 am

Mark, I like your rails. We did the same to our 33T, but also did the solid rails all the way forward. I like the firm hand hold it offers while underway, but agree that it probably won't take a direct fall with out some bending. I'll take a picture and post it in the next day or two. Damon
dsarin@yahoo.com
Damon and David
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Stephen Carstensen » Fri Dec 05, 2003 6:37 am

Yes, yes, please post photos.
- Steve
HC33T #123 warmrain@rockisland.com
Stephen Carstensen
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Damon and David » Sat Dec 06, 2003 5:07 am

Here's a picture of our solid railing from bow to stern. Kept the lifeline gates. Not sure if it's real noticable in this picture, but I can take a dockside one if anyone needs it. damon

Image
dsarin@yahoo.com
Damon and David
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby John Rutherford » Sat Dec 06, 2003 5:14 am

Actually it looks really nice. So your decks look REALLY nice, what have you been maintaining them with. hcoa@dessein.com
John Rutherford
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Damon and David » Sat Dec 06, 2003 5:34 am

I use semco on the teak. There has been some really good discusions on the board, do a search for 'semco' to find them. The semco is more of a stain type product with great uv properties. We first applied the semco a year and a half ago, and have only added another coat once in that time. In a nutshell, once the wood is cleaned, the semco is applied with two or three (we used three) coats. There is no waiting period between coats, so three coats can be put on in one day depending on how much you are doing, there is no sanding between coats, and what's really nice is when it's time to touch up or put on another coat, you only need to wash the boat. We have gotten so many compliments, we always enjoy compliments :). Semco on the decks does not affect traction what so ever, we like that too. There is a down side to using semco. The finish is that of raw wood, there is no gloss finish like varnish, and nothing IMHO looks better than varnish. We chose semco over varnish because it was less maintenance (more time for sailing), and easier to apply. We do have some varnish on trim pieces such as the hatches, trim in the cockpit, and companionway way doors. Since we've begun using the semco, we have been very pleased. For us it is a good compromise between appearance and time maintaining the wood. We buy ours at West Marine, but I'm sure it's available else where. The website is <A HREF="http://www.semcoteakproducts.com" TARGET="_blank">www.semcoteakproducts.com</A>. By the way, thanks for the compliment on our boat :) Damon
dsarin@yahoo.com
Damon and David
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Stephen Carstensen » Sat Dec 06, 2003 5:47 am

D & D, Questions from another 33 owner who is admiring the look of yours... What do you use to maintaint the teak - decks as well as other pieces that are traditionally brightwork? Have you ever considered replacing the handrails with SS units? I certainly have... Are the fore and aft ends of the "life-line" rails welded to the pulpit and "boomkin" rail? We take our lifelines down each year to facilitate varnishing around the tha stanchion bases... Thanks for the feedback. Best, Steve and Barb
HC33T #123
Warmrain, Seattle, WA warmrain@rockisland.com
Stephen Carstensen
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Scott Hughey » Sat Dec 06, 2003 12:06 pm

Hey the boat looks great!! Are the toprails welded to the pulpit or the pushpit and is the rail one continuis piece, I was wondering if it could be diasembled to varnish the cap rail
Scott
Scott Hughey
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Damon and David » Sat Dec 06, 2003 8:00 pm

Hi Steve, I use Semco on the teak decks and cap rail, and Schooner varnish on the hatches, companionway doors, and misc trim in the cockpit including the helmsman seat. For more information, read my post a couple messages up. Yes, I have seriously considered replacing the teak hand rails with stainless steel, but haven't taken it further than just thinking about it. I had planned on doing some reasearch after the holiday season to see what is on the market and how I can make the transision. What have you come up with? Do you have any ideas about making the change? At this time the ends of the stainless railing is not welded to the boomkin or pulpit. I used what's called 'deck hinges', a bimini rail fitting. It's riveted to the pulpits. I have considered having them welded in the future. With the current setup, I can remove the entire railing very easily if needed. The railing from the gate forward is one continuous piece, and I used T fittings to attach them to the stantions. The T fittings are riveted (ss rivets of course) to the stantions. Since we use semco on the cap rails, there is no need for me to remove the stantions. If I decide to varnish, my current set up will allow for me to remove the hand rails and stantions. I did the work myself, the whole project ran about $400 for both sides. Before starting the project, I had gotten a bid from a local marine metal fabricator, and to have the rails done and welded, my quote was $2500. Needless to say, I chose to do the work myself (very easy by the way), and though it may not look as good as a welded unit, I am very pleased with it. I'll take some detailed pictures in a couple days and post. Let me know if you have any other questions, damon
dsarin@yahoo.com
Damon and David
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Damon and David » Sat Dec 06, 2003 8:49 pm

Steve,
I posted some more pictures of the railing on my website. Go to <A HREF="http://www.picturetrail.com/bruadair" TARGET="_blank">www.picturetrail.com/bruadair</A> and click on the album for projects we're doing. damon
dsarin@yahoo.com
Damon and David
 

Solid stainless lifelines & stainless handrails

Postby Stephen Carstensen » Sat Dec 06, 2003 8:49 pm

Damon, Thanks for the response. I really like what you did with the rails. And, your decks are the nicest looking "treated" decks I've seen. I would think that it would be desirous to be able to remove the rails and the stern and bow pulpits separately, if for no other reason than to facilitate repair, or paint/maintain the bowsprit. We've been hit 3 times in the stern, requiring rail removal for straightening. We have removed the pulpit stainless to modify it to accept a 45# CQR without modification. We repainted the bowsprit at that time and IMHO it is the only way to do the work I have a close friend that refit an older Grand Banks Trawler. One of the steps he took to reduce maintenance was to remove all the teak handrails and replace them with stainless steel units (much as their doing now on the newer GBs). For the proper fit on his older GB 32 he went to a local SS marine fabricator and had them custom made. Of significant interest to me was that the ones on the top of his forward cabin were curved to match the cabin (as are our HC33Ts). We have more of a restriction than the flat decked GBs, we have a raised area around each handrail base that dictates the location of the base and somewhat limits the bases shape. What was done on the GB32 was to use a pipe of the same diameter as the rail for the vertical base section and a rectangular plate at the bottom with fastenings in each of the four corners. My idea was to do the same thing, shaping the base plate to match the current shape molded into the deck. I would fasten with stainless steel machine screws after drilling and tapping the fiberglass as you would metal. (This is how we attached our staysail sail tracks after converting from club footed. Detailed photos would be welcome Best, Steve
Warmrain
HC33T #123
warmrain@rockisland.com
Stephen Carstensen
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Lewis Whitesell » Sat Dec 06, 2003 10:38 pm

Very nice, Guys!
How did you get such a nice smooth accurate bend or is that just the railpipe flexed through the fittings? Also, are the railings secured to the T fittings?
What is the diameter and guage of the rail? Looks like a worthwhile project, I have never really trusted cable lifelines especially when they get some years on them. Thanks in advance,
Lewis
Lewis Whitesell
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Stephen Carstensen » Sat Dec 06, 2003 11:14 pm

Lewis, "I have never really trusted cable lifelines especially when they get some years on them. " Nope, never! They are just there to show you "where the edge of the boat is". Which is why they SHOULD be covered in white...! Many think it is more desirable to leave them plain wire. The white vinyl cover not only prevents you from getting a "meat hook" in your hands (yes, it also covers up the weaknesses in aging cable). But it also allows you to see the "edge" of the boat during the night passages. Oh, now as much as I love the SS life "railings", I think I might want to stick some SOLAS reflection squares at the top of the stanchions... maybe... Best, Steve warmrain@rockisland.com
Stephen Carstensen
 

Re: Solid Aft Rail Pics

Postby Damon and David » Sat Dec 06, 2003 11:18 pm

Hi Lewis yes, the rail was curved by flexing through the T connectors. Since we used one continuous piece of railing, there was no effort needed to curve the pipe, just pulled it over with one hand with minimal effort. The railing is 1" OD 316 stainless, not sure what the gauge is on it. The T fittings are rivetted to the stantions, but since the railing is one piece and goes through the T fitting, we used set screws and locktite to secure the rail inside the T. This allows us to pull the railing if needed in the future. This was really a project I am glad I did, the firm grip while walking forward underway is real nice, no give like traditional lifelines. I had a customer of mine come down to my boat to look at my wind generator installation (she was in the market at the time) and she noticed my railing. She liked it so much that she hired me to do the same railings on her boat, a Catalina 36. Came out real nice, it looks great on her Catalina. We do get a lot of people that stop by and inquire and compliment us about the railings. Again, I'm real glad we did this project, I would do it again. Damon
dsarin@yahoo.com
Damon and David
 

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