Standing rigging

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Standing rigging

Postby sv_pacific_pearl » Mon Aug 22, 2011 2:51 am

The standing rigging on my boat is 14 years old.

I met with the rigger this morning and he says that I sould look at changing it every 10 years.

How long does this stuff last? Cheers

Paul
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Postby deepdiving01 » Mon Aug 22, 2011 1:52 pm

Only my opinion but I believe in inspection not just changing things our driven by time. If the standing rigging, shrouds, stays, chainplate look good then why change them?
Maybe this is a fooish opinion but a good rigger can see the signes of wear and age.

Capt Ron
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Postby clonjers » Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:10 pm

On my HC34 they lasted almost 18 years, until the turnbuckles (The two lowers while I was going to weather in about 12kts) broke. The wire seemed still fine.

I have heard that the age also has to do with where the boats spends its time, like it will last less in the tropics.
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Postby sv_pacific_pearl » Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:32 pm

Thanks for that,

The rig has done a bit of work but not while I have owned the boat.

Thanks for your comments Capt Ron.

Clongers: I have read your posts on chainplates and chainplate bolts. How did you remove your plates?

As my boat is a ketch, I have 10 plates. Two of these I can see as I have inspection pads fitted. the rest are behind stuff - like the new shower cavity I has fitted three years ago.

From the two I can see, these chain plates look as though they are glassed over

Do I have to cut into the internal areas, make up cover plates for future inspection, cut into the glass so as to reveal the inside face of the plate and then remove the bolts?

What are these bolts bolted into? I read in one post that they were welded. SS plates on a Mild Steel backing plate? Is this right?

Then do I replace the plates, if they need it, and then mount them in a way I can remove them in the future?

If I start this job, I am committed. I'll be cutting into some work done earlier but hey thats the price you pay for not thinking about these things when you have the chance.

If anyone else out there has experience here, I would be super appreciative for some advice.

Regards

Paul
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Postby clonjers » Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:58 pm

for me it was easy on my HC34 the chain plates and bolts are fully exposed. The plates come down through the cap rail on the inside, bolts come through the outside of hull then through a block(s) of wood, so the plates are not directly against the hull, and then through the plates, then the nuts go on.

They are all inside the lockers. I like the idea, wonder why the other boats aren't like this.
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Postby sv_pacific_pearl » Mon Aug 22, 2011 10:42 pm

Thanks for the quick response.

Your system sounds like the way to go.

If do this job, I am going to set my boat up the same.
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Postby stormbay » Wed Aug 24, 2011 3:43 am

Hi,

Our chainplates are very accessible as we are in a 41, and removing them is just a matter of removing 4 bolts and pulling them off the deck. 15 minutes per plate max. I definitely feel for you and those who own HC 33s as it seems to be much more challenging since they are glassed in. I think that you are making the right choice in inspecting and replacing these as we have found the stainless steel on Hans Christians to be extremely subpar, which leads to your question about the standing rigging. All I can say is that everyone needs make decisions based on what they are comfortable with. You must understand that stainless steel, unlike mild steel, has a tendency to fail catastrophically, with little to no signs of wear. For me, after personally seeing how this holds true (not just on HCs but on other boats as well), my comfort lies in replacing sooner rather than later as I have developed a severe mistrust of stainless.

I probably wouldn't go much more than 10 years. Currently, in addition to replacing our bolts and chainplates, we are also replacing all of our standing rigging. The cost of this is about $2000 for the standing rigging (we are replacing each stay one by one). It has been pretty straightforward (much easier than replacing the chainplates and bolts) as all it really requires is climbing the mast, removing each stay, and sending in the whole thing, and having the rigging company replace it to the exact specs. This price reflects shipping as well, and for the peace of mind at $200/year for a 10 year lifespan, to me is well worth not losing sleep over a potential failure in an inopportune moment. If you double the lifespan to 20 years, you're significantly increasing your risk and only saving $100 a year. Ultimately, it's up to you and what you're comfortable with.

Frank
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Postby sv_pacific_pearl » Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:16 am

The price to replace my standing rigging so that it is oversized wire and norseman terminals is $19800.00 if i get the rigger to do it.

The real bummer though is the effort required to carve into the furniture/shower and a whole lot of stuff we restored in 2008 to replace these chainplates.

As you say, it is a piece of mind thing.

I need to fix this as I cant use it this way and cant just sell the boat knowing this potential problem exists.

Once it is fixed, I am sound in the knowledge that it is solid.

I could risk it for a little while longer but that just delaying the enevitable - russian roulette to be dramatic.

So.... what I have decided to do is refit the rig: replace all standing wires etc

While the mast is out, I will replace the blocks. I wont go into the detail as the idea of the whole thing is making me feel ordinary.

I am also thinking about putting in two holmatro boom vangs. If anyone else go one one these, it would be good to know how they are fairing.
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