Wood burning stove

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Wood burning stove

Postby Anonymous » Fri Dec 09, 2005 9:02 pm

Gang, <BR>We have a 1986 HC33, #102, that is equipped with a wood burning stove. This is our first winter with the boat and I am reluctant to use it (carbon monoxide, proximity to combustibles, general squemishness). Does anyone have any experience with them? <BR> <BR>Thanks, Mark
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Wood burning stove

Postby freespirit » Sat Dec 10, 2005 4:16 pm

Mark, we installed a Paul Luke bronze and soapstone and marble wood burning stove a number of years ago. We used it exclusively in Ireland, England, etc. Upon repairs to our stovepipe, we will begin using it again this winter. Leave a dorade open and you should be fine. By the way, the very best heat you can provide on your water borne home, IMHO. By the way, we also have central heat and air but prefer the stove in the winter to the reverse cycle. Good luck, First Light, #60, 1984.
Cathy Winkler
s/v Free Spirit
HC33T #101
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Wood burning stove

Postby Anonymous » Mon Dec 12, 2005 11:59 pm

It's on a 33? Where?/ Do you have pictures?
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Wood burning stove

Postby freespirit » Tue Dec 13, 2005 3:44 pm

Stephen, I do have photos of our installation but being the IT illiterate that I am, I cannot put this rather large photo on the web site. I will send the photo directly to you at your email address. Regards, Chuck, First Light, 1984 33T, #60. By the way, we took a little over two feet off of the settee and placed our fireplace against the bulkhead with the quarter berth. I put battens along the ceiling (back of the settee where we cut that cushion) to match the original battens. Then placed green marble as the first base of the fireplace (to match our other marble) and finally, put a slab of old growth teak immediately under the fireplace and on top of the marble. Quite a robust installation and it works beautifully.
Cathy Winkler
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HC33T #101
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Wood burning stove

Postby Anonymous » Tue Dec 13, 2005 6:40 pm

First Light's fireplace <BR><img src="http://hanschristian.org/discus/messages/2/1258.jpg" alt="First Light's fireplace">
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Wood burning stove

Postby Anonymous » Tue Dec 13, 2005 11:46 pm

Stephen, <BR>I'll take a picture of mine this weekend and try to upload it. <BR> <BR>Mark
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Wood burning stove

Postby Anonymous » Tue Dec 20, 2005 4:16 pm

Mark, <BR> <BR>How do you keep the deck around the Charlie Noble from leaking? I've been battling that for years! Nothing I do seems to work and I've tried some pretty major stuff!
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Wood burning stove

Postby freespirit » Fri Dec 23, 2005 3:01 pm

Stephen, we just tried a permanent fix, but we shall see. After removing the through deck fitting, we fiberglassed a "tunnel", complete with two layers of glass, expoxy and finished with gelcoat from the overhead through to the deck. Then we liberally caulked the deck fitting. I believe that this will serve us for some time (two years?). According to Frank Luke, builder of our fireplace, the caulk will deteriorate over time due to the repeated heating and cooling and require replacement. Hope that this assists. Chuck and Kathy, First Light, 1984 HC33T, #60.
Cathy Winkler
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HC33T #101
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Wood burning stove

Postby Anonymous » Mon Jan 02, 2006 7:15 pm

Thanks Chuck and Kathy, <BR> <BR>Yes, we did the same thing a few years ago for both the exhaust and the fresh air intake. I wonder now if it is the deck fitting... <BR> <BR>I also have a Charlie Noble guard that has 6 thru-deck machine screws. I'm going to check those first. <BR> <BR>The tunnel/flashing is required because it is impossible to get the teak deck pad water tight. Since the deck pad is recessed into the coach roof there is a cavity for water to collect in until it reaches the height of the lower edge of the hole for the Charlie Noble and then it runs in... (As you know...) <BR> <BR><img src="http://hanschristian.org/discus/messages/2/1278.jpg" alt="Sigmar 120 Charlie Noble"> <img src="http://hanschristian.org/discus/messages/2/1279.jpg" alt="Sigmar 120 on HC33T"> <BR> <BR>Thanks, Steve
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Wood burning stove

Postby arnaldo_laura » Tue Jan 03, 2006 8:13 pm

Steve, <BR>Have you thought about building up a flange from the deck in the recess? From your photo, it looks like you could take out the teak decking to the diameter of your pad, epoxy in a flange that would give you a sealable surface at or above the teak decking. <BR>Bruce
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Wood burning stove

Postby Anonymous » Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:45 pm

Bruce, <BR> <BR>Yes, I did this a couple years ago similar to Chuck and Kathy. The glass tubes that I fabicated goes from the bottom of the coach house glass to the top of the teak pads. <BR> <BR>Now each leg of the guard has two screws that penetrate the coach house glass (machine screws) I think I need to check those... <BR> <BR>I could also be that the integrity of the fiberglass tubes (glass and West system) could have been compromised from the heat of the stack. Though I did heavily insulate that area... <BR> <BR>Immediate after glassing in the tubes my leaks disappeared for a few years, not they're back... <BR> <BR>Funny thing though, they diminish as the rain continues for a few days, as if things are swelling up and sealing it off; but this isn't a wooden boat ;)
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Wood burning stove

Postby Anonymous » Wed Jan 04, 2006 5:51 pm

No Mike, <BR>I cover the hatches because after 3 redos they still leak. My varnish does not suffer from UV degradation. It suffers at the scarf joints in the cap rail from freezing and thawing all winter long... <img src="http://hanschristian.org/discus/clipart/wink.gif" border=0>
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